Traditional Dress of the Scottish Clans

Triubhas, or Trews, were breeches and stockings all in one piece, and cut to fit close to the figure. It required very great ingenuity to cut a pair of trews so as to match the checks of the tartan.

The Breacan-feile, or belted plaid, was made of sixteen yards of tartan. sixteen yards of single cloth sewn double, making eight yards of double cloth. The old Highland loom with its handdriven shuttle, could only make cloth twenty-eight inches wide. Consequently, two widths had to be sewn together to make the belted plaid. The plaid was pleated and fastened with the belt round the body, the one half of the width hanging from the waist to the knee ; the other, being tucked up, was fastened to the left shoulder by a pin or brooch, and in wet weather could be drawn over the shoulder like a cloak. This was a convenient form of the dress for campaigning, as it formed mantle, kilt, and blanket.

The bonnet was invariably blue, knitted, and then waulked or milled ; the broad shape, now commonly called ” Tarn o’ Shanter ” or ” Prince Charlie,” being the nearest approach to it. There was another style, the boineid bhiorach or cocked bonnet, something after the style of the modern ” glengarry,” but very much higher, and of which the ” glengarry’ ” is an imitation.

Before the invention of knitting, the hose were made of tartan cloth, which was specially made for the purpose, the set being smaller than that of the kilt or plaid ; the same size of check was used for the trews.

“The shoes anciently wore were a piece of the hide of a deer, cow, or horse, with the hair on, being tied behind and before with a point of leather.” This is the cuaran. It was much in the style of the sandals worn by Eastern nations. It is this that gave rise to the term, Roughfooted Scots. ”

The sporans were made of the skins of wild animals—badger, otter, wild cat, or goatskin. They were often ornamented with silver mountings, but they were neither so large nor so gaudy as those now worn. The dress was capable of being very richly ornamented. The plaid was fastened at the shoulder by a brooch of silver, often studded with precious stones, and embellished with devices of thistles, animals, etc. There was also a brooch worn in the bonnet, with the wearer’s crest and motto engraved on it. In the bonnet was also the badge or Suaicheantas of the clan and usually one or more eagle’s feathers, according to the rank of the wearer. A chief wore three, a chieftain two, a duine-uasal or gentleman one.